Take a moment to remember the first time you ever tried baba ghanoush. (And if you haven't, you will, shortly after reading this post.) You're seated in your favorite local Middle-Eastern restaurant, with hot pitas and a pool of paprika-sprinkled hummus before you. Over in the corner lurks a slightly chunkier, translucent-looking beige spread. You dip in your pita, observe that it tastes practically the same (and yet not quite as good) as hummus, and shrug it off as yet another lemony Middle-Eastern spread.
There is something wrong with this picture. Baba ghanoush, as it is often made, has all the same ingredients as hummus, with eggplant substituted for chickpeas: tahini, lemon, garlic, parsley, cumin/paprika/cayenne, olive oil... No wonder the two taste practically the same.
Several years ago, my mother (who is a Middle-Eastern-cooking inspiration to all) came to a simple, yet liberating realization: baba ghanoush doesn't have to taste just like hummus.
Baba ghanoush, a large pile of white bean spread lurking in the wings. |
The following recipe -- a Syrian variant with a powerful secret ingredient, pomegranate molasses -- tastes totally different and totally amazing. I have received nothing but rave reviews of this baba ever since my mother and I started making it when I was in high school. I don't think I have ever made it without being asked for the recipe.
So now, finally, it's time to share my coveted baba ghanoush with the world. BUT, one simple caveat: I never measure anything when I cook. I can only give approximate quantities, and I leave it up to your own discretion to season this baba ghanoush to taste. My primary advice is to go easy on the pomegranate molasses. It's strong stuff, and a teaspoon of it goes a long way. But if you put more or less tahini in your baba, it's simply more or less sesame-ey, so that's up to you.
Ingredients
2 medium/large eggplants
tahini (Middle-Eastern sesame paste)
olive oil
pomegranate molasses (available at Middle-Eastern and South-Asian groceries)
balsamic vinegar
1 clove garlic
smoked paprika
cumin
salt, pepper
fresh parsley or cilantro
There are several ways of preparing eggplants for baba ghanoush. Ideally, it should have a smoky taste, so the best way to prepare the eggplants is on the grill. I don't have a grill, so I've found other methods. Here are your options:
1) Grill until skin is charred and flesh is soft all the way through, yielding to a fork
2) Roast eggplant directly on the flame of a gas stove, rotating with tongs until flesh is soft, as seen above.
3) Halve eggplant and coat liberally with olive oil (including the skin). Place on a baking sheet and bake at 350° F until eggplants are soft all the way through and skin peels off easily, about 30 minutes.
Removing the skin after employing the baking method. |
Once your eggplant is cooked, remove the skin and any large seed flaps from the inside of the eggplant (careful, however, not to remove too much of the usable flesh). If the eggplant is especially bitter when you taste it, squeeze the flesh with your hands to remove the bitter juice.
In a food processor or blender, combine eggplant, a few tablespoons (or more) tahini, a generous swoop of olive oil, a clove of garlic (chopped into bits to avoid un-blended chunks), a dash of balsamic vinegar, a dash of pomegranate molasses (careful! strong flavor!), spices, herbs and salt. Note that the smoked paprika adds to the smoky flavor that is ideal for baba ghanoush. If you do add cumin, go easy on it, since you don't want that flavor to dominate.
Blend all ingredients until smooth, taste, and adjust seasonings. If it's too tart/salty, add more tahini. If it's too bland, add more salt and possibly balsamic vinegar. If you don't taste any of the pomegranate, add a few drops more.
Caution: this baba ghanoush may blow your mind.
Looks delicious. I recall it was the Israeli restaurant Sheva Cafe in Taos, New Mexico that got us thinking about using balsamic vinegar instead of lemon juice for acidity. Thanks for sharing credit for the development of this recipe!
ReplyDeleteAs far as I'm concerned, it is YOUR recipe! But since I'm the one with the eggplant blog... :)
ReplyDeletePomegranate molasses! GENIUS! It would never have occurred to me but I HAVE to try it.
ReplyDeleteI don't think babaghanoush tastes like hummus. But that's because I cook mine by laying the eggplants right over the flame on my gas stove and let it really CHAR. Plenty of smoky flavor - and while I love smoky paprika, it's not needed if the eggplant is already smoky. (Or you could just sprinkle a bit over the top for color and added smokiness.) I also make sure to cook the eggplant until it's really soft and then just chop it with a fork and knife. (The long Asian eggplants cook faster for this.) I don't like to mix my babaghanoush in a food processor because it's too hard to keep it from getting pureed. I like mine with little chunks of eggplant, not just sauce. I generally use lemon juice, not balsalmic vinegar - mainly because the red vinegar darkens the color of the eggplant. But if you're using the pom syrup, that will change the color a bit anyway. The ingredients for your recipe look pretty awesome. I'd just make these few cooking technique tweaks.
ReplyDeleteI think her roasting technique #2 is pretty much what you described (which is also how we always did it at home). For the larger eggplants sometimes you have to bake them a little afterwards to get them soft all the way through. I agree about the mashing versus processing.
ReplyDelete